As the warmth of early spring gradually melts away the remnants of winter snow, delicate pink cherry blossoms begin to bloom, offering a refreshing sense of seasonal change. Across Japan, people eagerly prepare for vibrant festivals to welcome their beloved springtime. Among the many festivities held throughout the country, one stands out in Tokyo’s Asakusa district: the Asakusa Ichiyo Sakura Festival – Edo Yoshiwara Oiran Parade (浅草観音うら一葉桜まつり「江戸吉原おいらん道中」). This mesmerizing event takes place along a street lined with Ichiyo cherry trees in full bloom, creating an enchanting tunnel of pink blossoms. Adding to the spectacle, elegantly dressed women transform into historical courtesans, known as Oiran, and perform stunning traditional displays.

Edo Yoshiwara Oiran Dochu Asakusa Kannonura Ichiba：Traversing Time: The Edo Oiran Parade

The Edo Yoshiwara Oiran Parade is a grand festival with deep historical roots, closely tied to the backstreets of Asakusa’s Senso-ji Temple. This area was once home to Yoshiwara Yukaku, the largest red-light district of the Edo period, where men sought entertainment from courtesans. Among the many ranks of women working in the district, the most prestigious were the Oiran or Tayuu, the highest-ranking courtesans of their time. Experiencing the Asakusa Ichiyo Sakura Festival is like stepping back in time to the vibrant streets of Edo.

To honor Asakusa’s historical and cultural legacy, the Ichiyo Sakura Festival has been held annually on the second Saturday of April since 2003. Now in its 15th year, the event reenacts the grand processions in which Oiran were escorted to lavish teahouses after being chosen by patrons. Known as the Oiran Parade, this spectacle not only serves as a tribute to history but also offers modern audiences a rare chance to witness the elegance and traditions of Japan’s past.

 

Edo-Era Oiran Parade: A Springtime Visual Feast

As the gentle spring breeze sweeps through Tokyo, Asakusa welcomes the arrival of cherry blossom season. The soft pink hues of full-bloomed sakura paint the bustling city with a delicate touch of serenity. The festival begins in the morning with lively events such as a children’s parade, flea markets, and captivating street performances. However, the highlight of the day—the Oiran Parade—takes place in the afternoon, typically starting around 1 PM. To fully experience this spectacular event, visitors are advised to arrive early, as the streets become densely packed with spectators.

 

A Personal Experience at the Asakusa Ichiyo Sakura Festival

On April 9, 2016, I had the opportunity to attend this breathtaking festival and document the stunning performances. The weather was perfect, with the sun casting a warm glow over the festivities. Upon arriving at Asakusa Station, I was greeted by the ongoing Sumida Park Sakura Festival. Although the cherry blossoms were past their peak, the sight of kimono-clad visitors still made the atmosphere enchanting.

I made my way to Komatsubashi Street, eagerly anticipating the Oiran Parade. By the time I arrived, crowds had already filled the streets, including many international visitors. Worried that I wouldn’t get a good view, I navigated through the packed crowd and finally secured a decent spot near the stage.

The event had already begun, with the sounds of traditional Japanese music filling the air. However, the parade itself had yet to appear. I soon realized that the Oiran procession moves at an incredibly slow pace, almost as if competing with a tortoise. The combination of the tight crowd and strong sunlight made some spectators restless, even leading to minor disputes among onlookers. Fortunately, the situation quickly settled, and at last, the first performers emerged—a troupe from Yoshiwara Kitsune-sha showcasing the “Yoshiwara Fox Dance” (吉原の狐舞ひ), a traditional performance once held annually on New Year’s Eve in the Edo period.

Even the famous ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai captured this unique scene in his artwork, highlighting its cultural significance.

The Majestic Oiran Procession

Following the Fox Dance, the long-awaited Oiran Parade finally arrived, drawing gasps of admiration from the audience. The grand procession featured not only the Oiran themselves but also performers carrying ritual objects such as sacred wands and fans, along with musicians playing flutes, drums, and taiko, enhancing the theatrical atmosphere. Clad in exquisite kimonos, the Oiran moved at an unhurried pace, a breathtaking sight to behold.

Due to the slow procession, the Oiran took a break behind the stage before resuming their performance. During this interval, the Fox Dance troupe entertained the audience with comical and exaggerated movements, bringing laughter to the crowd.

The festival continued with samurai sword demonstrations and a special recitation by the esteemed actress Tani Ami Yatsuko, before the Oiran took center stage again, performing a graceful reenactment of traditional tea-serving etiquette.

After a brief rest, the Oiran finally returned to the stage, performing a graceful reenactment of how they interacted with guests and served tea. Their movements were fluid and composed, exuding an air of elegance and refinement.

 

The Spectacular Lineup of the Oiran Parade

The Oiran Parade consists of multiple key roles, each with historical significance：

The Guide of the Procession: 

The Oiran Parade consists of various roles, and the first figure to lead the procession is a male guide. Holding a lantern adorned with the Oiran’s distinctive crest, the guide lights the path for the Oiran, symbolizing not only a guiding role but also the Oiran’s prestigious position in the bustling street. This act represents the Oiran’s elevated status and signifies their importance within the vibrant parade.

“Kamuro”: The Young Apprentices in the Oiran Procession

Ahead of the Oiran in the procession, there are two young girls known as “Kamuro” (禿). These children, typically around 10 years old, carry the Oiran’s belongings. Kamuro are apprentices to the courtesans and Oiran, tasked with handling minor duties while also learning the ways of the courtesan or Oiran, in hopes of one day living and working in the pleasure quarters.

Most of these young girls come from impoverished families, and once they are sent to the brothels, they are placed under strict supervision, losing their freedom and autonomy. If their families lack the money or if no man intervenes to redeem them, it becomes extremely difficult for them to escape this confining world, trapping them there for life.

Musicians & Dancers:

For larger processions, there may also be young women holding folding fans on either side, followed by performers playing traditional instruments such as shamisen or biwa. They play Edo-period songs, adding to the lively atmosphere of the Oiran Parade.

The Oiran: The Focus of the Parade

Following the procession are the Oiran, the stars of the parade, elegantly making their way through the crowd. Dressed in extravagant attire, they gracefully hold fans or handkerchiefs, striking poised and refined poses. Completing the procession are the rikishi (strong attendants), who assist the Oiran in their movement.

The Unique Attire of the Oiran

The Oiran’s elaborate and opulent kimono is a defining feature of their appearance. Made of layered silk, this handcrafted garment, known as “Susohiki” (裾引き), weighs around 20 kilograms. The kimono’s wide-open neckline elegantly reveals the alluring, snow-white skin of the nape, a highly admired feature in Japanese aesthetics.

A striking element of their attire is the Darari no Obi (だらりの帯), a long, trailing sash tied in the front. While aesthetically impressive, this design also served a practical purpose, as Oiran were historically courtesans.

Their elaborate hairstyles, resembling a grand, exaggerated butterfly, are known as Date Hyogo (伊達兵庫) or Tate Hyogo (立兵庫). As a courtesan’s status and reputation grew, her hairstyle would become increasingly taller, adorned with even more kanzashi (hair ornaments) in a dazzling display of wealth and prestige. Some of these ornate hairstyles reportedly weighed up to 4 kilograms.

To complete the look, the Oiran’s face and nape are painted with a white base makeup, complemented by bold, vibrant accents, creating an ethereal and mesmerizing appearance that captivates all who behold them.

Oiran’s Wooden Geta:

The Oiran wore elaborate and luxurious attire, complemented by their distinctive footwear known as “sanmaiba geta”—special wooden clogs with three elevated teeth. These clogs, standing at approximately 20 centimeters in height, symbolized their prestigious status. Each pair weighed around 4 kilograms, and when combined with the elaborate kimono and accessories, the total weight of their ensemble reached nearly 30 kilograms. Walking in such attire was extremely challenging, requiring the assistance of strong attendants who stood by to support them. These attendants would offer their shoulders, allowing the Oiran to maintain balance and prevent stumbling.

Beyond their elaborate clothing and footwear, the Oiran also walked in a highly distinctive manner. They utilized a “soto-hachimonji” (outer figure-eight) and “uchi-hachimonji” (inner figure-eight) gait, carefully executing each step by first drawing a semicircle before moving forward. Despite the towering height of their geta, they maintained perfect balance, ensuring that their footwear remained steady without slipping off. Though their pace was slow, the Oiran’s stunning appearance was a spectacle in itself, captivating all who watched. Walking gracefully through the streets, basking in the admiring gazes of onlookers, was both their right and their honor.

Following closely behind the Oiran were several attendants, including the “Shinzō” (新造)—young women older than Kamuro, or courtesans who had aged beyond their prime. Additionally, there were umbrella bearers (傘持ちの男衆) who held parasols to shield the Oiran, as well as bodyguards and other escorts who ensured the grand procession proceeded smoothly.

On this bright and sunny day, I marveled at the Oiran gracefully performing while dressed in such heavy attire—especially the outermost layer, which was as thick as a quilt. It was truly astonishing. The endurance and patience of these performers were admirable, and their dedication to their craft was nothing short of inspiring.

The Oiran, dazzling in their beauty, once captivated high-ranking officials, wealthy merchants, and noble elites. Yet, behind their glamorous façade lay untold hardships—loneliness, rigorous training, and fierce competition among courtesans. Their journey mirrored that of cherry blossoms, slowly growing in the cold, only to bloom magnificently in the prime of their youth. However, their beauty was fleeting, like sakura petals carried away by the wind. The Oiran and courtesans, renowned for their unparalleled elegance, often saw their lives fade by their 20s or 30s, a fate that evokes deep sorrow. Much like the storyline in the film “Sakuran” (惡女花魁), their lives were tinged with both brilliance and tragedy.

At the end of the event, I witnessed a group photo of the performers who had participated in the Oiran Parade. Seated in an orderly arrangement, they resembled the beautifully displayed Hina dolls of Japan’s Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day Festival)—a perfect ending to a mesmerizing cultural experience.

The entire Oiran Parade is a magnificent spectacle, not only brimming with the charm of the Edo period but also showcasing the unique allure of Japanese culture. If you have an interest in traditional festivals, witnessing this event in person is highly recommended—it is truly a breathtaking experience.

However, be sure to arrive early, as this festival has grown increasingly popular, drawing larger crowds each year. To enjoy the full performance, it’s best to secure a spot near the stage area, where you can fully appreciate the elegance and grandeur of this unforgettable cultural celebration.

 

浅草観音うら・一葉桜まつり

日期：2023年4月8日（星期六）
※如遇雨天時則順延至翌日4/9(星期日）

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